Line

When Vasilis Kyritsis and Nikos Bakoulis, the pair behind The Clumsies, once ranked #4 in the World's 50 Best Bars, teamed up with Dimitris Dafopoulos of Three Cents to open something new, expectations were sky-high. Line doesn't just meet them; it sidesteps them entirely, proposing a version of bartending that most of the industry hasn't caught up with yet. The premise: fermentation is the foundation of everything. Fruit wines, beer, sourdough bread, all made in-house, all feeding into each other in a circular production model where nothing goes to waste.

The space is a converted art gallery in Petralona, a residential neighbourhood a short taxi ride from central Athens. High ceilings and a Mediterranean-industrial aesthetic give the interior a raw, gallery-like openness. Out back, a partially covered Greek garden, lush with plants, offers a quieter counterpoint, ideal for conversation and warm evenings. As the night progresses, the indoor area transforms: music goes up, tables disappear, and the room takes on the energy of a small club. The garden remains a calm refuge.

At the heart of the programme are the Why-ins, grapeless wines fermented from local fruits in collaboration with winemaker Thanos Georgilas. The Classic range uses nothing but fruit, yeast and time; the Fancy versions are augmented with distillates, aromas or fresh fruits. The Pomegranate Why-In is remarkable, genuinely comparable to a well-made grape wine, with depth and character that would satisfy any serious wine drinker. But the cocktails are where the philosophy really sings. The Delusional Margarita, reposado tequila with mustard, ketchup, potato water and spices, sounds like a provocation, but the mustard comes through as a subtle warmth that lifts rather than overwhelms. The Wet Manhattan is the most powerful serve on the list: Jack Daniel's, Metaxa 12 Stars, house Symposium Vermouth, blueberry, burnt eggplant, cherry, layered and long, with notes arriving as an aftertaste rather than hitting you upfront. The Mary Pickford is lighter, closer to its classic inspiration, refreshing and clean. Even the Negroni, built on Fords Gin, house vermouth and Line's own bitter amaro, feels quietly elevated.

Service is warm from the door. The team explained the no-waste philosophy and the Why-ins concept without any of the preciousness that sustainability-focused bars sometimes fall into. They guided us through the different areas and the food menu, which itself follows the same circular logic, the Bread Experience is a standout for groups, and the Patatas Bravas were perfectly cooked.

A few honest notes: Petralona is not central Athens, so plan your transport. And when the indoor space hits full party mode late at night, it can be difficult to move, let alone leave gracefully. Come early if you want the cocktail-bar experience; stay late if you want the party.

At €11-14 per cocktail and €6.50 for the Why-ins, Line offers what might be the best value proposition of any bar in the World's 50 Best. This is a place genuinely pushing cocktail culture into new territory, fermentation-driven, sustainability-minded, and utterly delicious. Worth the trip to Petralona. Worth the trip to Athens.